Edinburgh, Queensferry and home

 To end the trip, we took the train from York to Edinburgh and then on to Queensferry, a town just West of Edinburgh but close to the airport.  Due to a number of delays, our arrival in Edinburgh was late enough to qualify for a refund.  Steady rain limited our activities there, so we went to Marks and Spencer for afternoon tea and to stock up on biscuits.  

I was still raining when we got to our B and B.  The owner Anne graciously offered to drive us to an excellent Indian restaurant for dinner where we enjoyed our meal in dry clothing.  On the wet walk back we saw some of what makes Queensferry a popular destination - cobbled streets, maritime history and three iconic bridges over the Firth of Forth. 

Returning to Toronto was uneventful in a good way.  After 23 days away, it was wonderful to see how lush and green the neighbourhood was.  Home Sweet Home!

Ribblehead

 Ribblehead viaduct is a long structure that was built during the rail boom of the 1870’s.  It was part of the Settle to Carlisle line and eventually became part of the current Network Rail; in other words, it’s in active commercial use and is not just a ‘preserved line’.  About 1.5 million bricks were used in its construction and some 200 people died building it (many of those deaths were due to disease and natural causes, not necessarily accidents).

We had originally planned to visit it mid-week and set off for Leeds where there’s a change of trains to take the Settle-Carlisle line.  When we got to Leeds we found that the train was only going partway because the heavy rains of the previous day had washed out some of the track.  There was a shuttle bus available to bypass the damage.  However, as it wasn’t clear that we would be able to get back to York on the same day we decided to give up and try again later in the week.

By Saturday, the track had been repaired and the weather looked much better.  It being the start of a long weekend, the trains were packed.  And not just with knobby-kneed pensioners like ourselves but lots of young people too.  Evidently, hiking has not gone out of style, at least not in Yorkshire.  Some people had large backpacks so were evidently going for multi-day camping trips across the Dales.

We exited at Ribblehead and had an enjoyable day walking around the valley.  Not really a major hike, just a pleasant stroll.  We ate our lunch sitting on some rocks next to a cattle grid.  We didn’t see any cattle, just lots of sheep.  We also saw this steam engine crossing the viaduct.  It’s not the train we travelled on, just a ‘special’ that runs on some weekends.

On returning to the railway station, we found that we had a bit of a wait until the next train back to Leeds.  We also found that the volunteers who staff the station do teas.  This was served to us what must have once been a waiting room and is now surrounded by murals recounting the history of the station and the viaduct.

Yorkshire

 Our base for exploring Yorkshire was a quaint coach house in the "Bishy" (Bishopthorpe) Road area of York, about 15 minutes walk from the historic town centre.  The house was charming and roomy with all we needed for the week.   

We spent several days touring the walled city and learning about its history from Clifford's Tower, the Army Museum and a "free" walking tour given by an amateur historian who collected tips at the end.  

The picturesque coastal town of Whitby was the destination for a pleasant day trip, this time by bus which provided great views of the Yorkshire countryside and shoreline.  After exploring the harbour, we climbed the 199 steps to see the gothic Whitby Abbey and the nearby and lovingly maintained Church of  St. Mary.  

 Before returning to York, we thoroughly enjoyed a classic cream tea in a traditional tea room called Botham's.  

Dover and Fan Bay Deep Shelter

 

Barb was keen to see the ‘White Cliffs of Dover’.  As it’s an easy train ride from Canterbury, we decided to do a day trip there and do a bit of a walk along the Coastal Path.  First we looked around Dover town for a bit – I was surprised at how small it is – and visited the museum.  It’s actually very good and has lots of information about the town’s origins and history.

There’s also a display about the Royal National Lifeboat Institute which had one of its first stations in Dover.

Another display is about cross-channel swimming.  I had no idea that so many people have swum it!  These include, of course, our very own Marilyn Bell and Cindy Nicholas.

To get to the coastal path, we had to walk through the town, along its waterfront promenade and past the ferry port.  Eventually, we climbed up a long flight of steps and were in the open with glorious views of sheep and chalk cliffs:

At the visitor center we found that we were quite close to the Fan Bay Deep Shelter and that tours of these tunnels could be had.  The volunteers provided us with helmets and headlamps and took us down into the cold, wet tunnels.  These were dug out of the chalk in WW2 when gun emplacements were built nearby.  They were supposed to provide living accommodations for the gun crews who worked shifts to provide a lookout around the clock. 

In fact, the tunnels proved to be unhealthy places to live as they were so damp and poorly ventilated.  Mold grew everywhere and metal rusted quickly.  In the end, the tunnels were used as air-raid shelters while the crews lived in Nissen huts on the top of the cliffs.

The tunnels were abandoned in the 1970s only to be rediscovered in 2012 and opened to visitors by the National Trust.

Canterbury

 Canterbury is a medieval city and UNESCO world heritage site which makes a pleasant walking tour.  A highlight of our time there was the self-guided audio tour and museum dedicated to St Augustine's Abbey.  a monastery founded in 598 and continuing until 1538 when it was destroyed during the English Reformation.  

 To avoid crowds, we visited the famous Canterbury Cathedral first thing one morning.  We had a peaceful time exploring on our own and then joining groups for short talks on the chapter house and a particular stained glass artist.  When we emerged, the tour groups were lined up waiting to enter.

That afternoon, we took the train to the retro seaside holiday town of Margate, expecting a tranquil few hours admiring the Victorian hotels and wide beaches.  We didn't know that the whole town would be taken over by the Malle Mile Beach Race, a weekend-long celebration of inappropriate motorcycle culture.  We took a long walk away from the noisy festivities, grateful to return to calm Canterbury that evening.  

Family Visits

We had two family visits:  Teresa and James in Wimborne and Matthew in London.

Having disembarked at Southampton, it should have been an easy train ride to Poole.  However, the Southampton station was very busy as a large group of people were transferring from cruise ships to trains.  Fortunately, nearly all of them were travelling in the opposite direction from Poole, i.e. towards London.  But there was a single queue for the ticket office and we had to wait in line in order to get our Britrail passes properly validated. 

Poole is about the same as I remember it from years ago.  We had some extra time so we took a look around the 'old town' on the other side of the railway tracks.  Strangely, I don't think I've ever been there before!  Along the way, we found an excuse to go into a Costa and have a morning cup of coffee.  This particular Costa permits dogs but they are supposed to stay in one section near the door.

One change is that Marks and Spencers is no longer in the Dolphin Centre having closed in 2022.  It was at that location for 50 years!

We took the #3 bus to Wimborne which dropped us off at the town square.  With a little help from Google Maps, we got our bearings and walked to Glendale Close in light rain.

The next day, Teresa and James suggested a visit to Kingston Lacy which is about 5 km north west of Wimborne.  It was a very interesting visit and it's well staffed with volunteers stationed in each room.  Each one gives a short talk on the points of interest in that particular room.

After touring the building, we walked through the extensive gardens and lawns.  Near the end, we spotted a robotic lawn mower.  It seemed to have lost its way - or perhaps it was trying to escape.  After some back and forth, it gave up and hid under some bushes.

A few days later (after our Canterbury visit) we took the train up to London's St Pancras station where we had arranged to meet Matthew at the famous statue of John Betjeman.  It worked out quite well as he had just arrived in London a couple of days earlier but had not yet started teaching his class so he had a bit of time to spare.  The weather was nice and sunny that day so we decided to walk over to Regent's Park.   The park was quite busy with lots of people jogging, strolling around, some with kids, some with dogs and a few on bicycles or scooters.  Here's the sculpture of Triton:

After an outdoor lunch and a walk through Bloomsbury, we returned to King's Cross Station and took the very fast LNER train to York.

Galas and Ballrooms

The QM2 is a ship that honours its Britishness.  An elegant, multi-course afternoon tea is served each afternoon by white-gloved waiters accompanied by a pianist or string trio.  We went once and enjoyed the experience.

The dress code for dinner in the dining room is smart attire except on gala nights where diners are expected to don evening wear (tux or dark suit for men, gown or cocktail dress for women).  We came prepared.

It was fun to dress up, attend the dinner and then move on to the ballroom for more glamour. 

Life at Sea

 Daily programmes listed dozens of activities throughout the day and evening.  

We took in lectures on:
World War II in the North Atlantic (weather stations, U boats  and mythical islands)
Art History (London's development and English architecture)
Social History of London (Beatles, London on Film, Jewish East End)
and a very good presentation on the life and art of L.S. Lowry, even viewing two of his paintings in the onboard art gallery.  On day 3 of the cruise, we were surprised to get internet reception.  It was because we were sailing close enough to Cape Race, Newfoundland.  

To stay fit, we chose power walks on the promenade deck (2 laps for a km), gym visits and time in the hot tub.  

First Impressions of the Ship and the Week to Come

 Once we got to the ship, embarking was a breeze and so different from flying.  After handing off our suitcases, and showing our passports and tickets, we were guided to a waiting area and given a card with a number.  In about 20 minutes, our number was called, and we proceeded up the ramp to enter the ship and find our cabin. The bags arrived promptly outside the cabin door.

We then joined other passengers for the sail away. Even in damp and foggy weather, the route out of Brooklyn was impressive as we passed under the Verrazzano Narrows bridge (with only 16 feet to spare) and on past the Statue of Liberty. 

Exploring the ship was one of our first activities as the QM2 has many quirky and out of the way places.  Halls were decorated with memorabilia and story boards and there was artwork in the stairways.

While there were many passengers around, it didn't feel crowded and except for entertainment venues and dining areas, it was quiet!  That night in the dining room, we met out tablemates Robin and Howard from Pittsburg.  The other couple that was expected to join our table opted out because they wanted a German speaking table.  Robin (a CPA) and Howard  (a pediatric dentist and occasional actor) were good company,  We had dinner together on the first two nights, but didn't see them again.  

Then and Now

 

It’s interesting to compare our experience on the QM2 in 2024 with our experience on the Empress of England way back in 1968.  Both trips were in the North Atlantic if at different times of year and in different directions.

The main difference is size.  The QM2 is absolutely huge at 1,132 feet long and 134 feet wide.  The EofE was a mere 640 feet long and 85 feet wide.  The QM2 can carry 2,695 passengers versus only 1,058 on the EofE.  Every cabin on the QM2 has its own ensuite with a shower, etc.  

I’m not sure if any of the cabins on the EofE had their own bathrooms; perhaps in First Class.  On the EofE, we shared the bathroom with other passengers in our part of the ship.  No shower but there was a bathtub! Actually, I think there was a washbasin in the cabin - hard to remember.

(p.s. The Titanic was 882 feet long and 92 feet wide so not much larger than the EofE)

Another difference is Class.  The EofE had First Class and Tourist Class. First Class was generally segregated from Tourist with its own restaurant, lounges, etc, that were off-limits to the unwashed Tourist class.  The QM2 does have what they call ‘grills’ but these are really just separate restaurants/menus that are available to people with higher priced cabins.  Otherwise, everything seems to be available to all including room service!

On the EofE, one of the first things we had to do was the lifeboat drill.  This involved actually putting on lifejackets and assembling at the assigned muster station.  All good fun with lots of friendly banter between passengers.  But we knew exactly what to do if there was an emergency!  By contrast, the equivalent on the QM2 was a video that all passengers have to watch on the TV in their cabins. The information went in one ear and out the other.  In this respect, things had regressed.  In fairness, the video was available in multiple languages.  A lot of the passengers were German-speaking as the ship continued to Hamburg after stopping at Southampton.

The promenade deck on the QM2 is almost entirely open to the elements except at the bow. So it can be quite windy and wet.  By contrast, I seem to remember that the promenade deck on the EofE was mostly enclosed.  Most of the cabins on the QM2 have some sort of balcony.  Ours did not as we opted for an inside cabin - not a lot to see on a transatlantic crossing anyway.  I don't think any of the cabins on the EofE had balconies.  Ours had a porthole and I remember there was a sign warning passengers not to open the porthole while the ship was under way. 

The EofE was probably faster than the QM2 as it did the trip from Liverpool to Montreal in 7 days, a distance of about 5,000 km which included an overnight stop in Greenock, Scotland and Quebec City.  The QM2 takes 7 days to travel a slightly longer distance of 5,508 km from New York to Southampton.

The QM2 is very, very smooth.  There’s almost no sensation of movement until you look out at the sea rushing by.  By comparison, the EofE was quite rough with lots of people being seasick and the swimming pool was closed because of the motion.

Cunard is part of the Carnival group of companies.  Curiously, Carnival got started in 1972 with ships called the Mardi Gras and the Carnivale.  These had previously been the Empress of Canada and Empress of Britain which were the EofE's sister ships.  The EofE was sold to a different company and became the Ocean Monarch.

The East River ....

 

… separates Manhattan from Brooklyn.  There are many ways to cross it.  One Sunday morning we managed to do this five times.

We had decided to take one of New York’s excellent ferries from Lower Manhattan directly to the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal.  We had plenty of time to spare as boarding did not begin until 13:00 and the last boarding time was 16:00.

After taking a bus from New Jersey to the Port Authority bus terminal in mid-Manhattan we worked out which subway line we needed to take.  NYCs subway is complicated at the best of times and it’s even worse on Sunday mornings as that's when they do track maintenance.  Despite following signs and getting the opinions of several citizens of New York, we somehow ended up crossing the Williamsburg Bridge.  Lovely part of  Brooklyn … but a long way from the Cruise Terminal.  So we doubled back (another fare!) and made our way down Wall Street to the ferry terminal at the foot of Water Street.

By now, we had burned up a bit of time and were starting to have visions of the QM2 leaving without us so we thought we’d better skip lunch and get on the first available ferry.  A ferry employee pointed us to a ferry that was supposed to stop at Brooklyn Cruise Terminal and we took her word for it.  A mistake … we should have verified this with the on-board crew who, if nothing else, should at least know where they are going.

So we had a nice trip in the fog and rain down the East River on our way to Rockaway Beach which is nowhere near the Cruise Terminal!  Fortunately, it made a stop at the Brooklyn Army Terminal, aka Sunset Park in better weather,  where we disembarked and waited for another ferry to take us back (yet another fare)

By now, time was running a bit short but it still looked like we would be able to make our appointed boarding time for the QM2.  We hopped on the ferry and had a wonderful close-up view of the QM2 as it was moored at the Terminal.  The ferry continued right past it … and didn’t stop.  For some reason, it goes to Governor’s Island first and then back to the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal!

So that’s three trips across the East River by ferry and two by subway.

Fortunately, it’s a short walk from the ferry dock to the QM2 terminal so we arrived in good time.  On boarding the QM2, there's  a sign saying "Leaving Brooklyn - Fuhggedaboutit"

World's Shortest Cruise

 The first leg of our trip was from Toronto Islands City airport to Newark, New Jersey.  The islands airport is small, peaceful and scenic - nothing like the chaos of Toronto's main airport.  This is partly because it does not allow jet aircraft, only turboprops.  

To get to the airport, there is a newish tunnel from the mainland.  However, the old ferry has been kept in place so that vehicles (I think these are only service vehicles, not private cars) can get across the so-called Western Gap.  This gap is all of 121 metres wide making it perhaps the world's shortest cruise at about 90 seconds.  

Being 10:15 on a Saturday morning, it was rather quiet and we were the only foot passengers:

 

Time to Travel - Three trips in one!

 We had our last overseas trip in 2019 to Scotland and still felt pulled to explore more of the UK. Spring 2024 would be the year to choose a few experiences from the wish list.

With Michael taking care of the house, and volunteer responsibilities on the decline, we knew we could be away for several weeks in succession.  We combined a transatlantic voyage, some family visiting and tours of Kent and Yorkshire into one journey, leaving the island airport on the first Sunday in May.